And despite the focus on commerce, there is something vaguely non-commercial about the country's tradition of Christmas markets. About sharing the pleasure of a mug of mulled wine with friends after work or delicately pulling the shells off roasted chestnuts in a small paper bag. Occasionally, you might even find a gift in the markets, which serve as the perfect antidote to department stores, chain shops and overly commercialized high streets that whip out the Christmas decorations as early as October.
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